Ulleungdo – A weekend on Korea’s exotic island

by Mike Still
Ulleungdo – A weekend on Korea’s exotic island

_DSC9387Exploring Korean exotic islands is quickly turning the summer of 2015 into one of the best of my life!  We jumped on the Seoul Hiking Group bus and headed to he eastern port of Donghae before setting up tents on the beach and waking up to the waves.  The 3 hour ferry from Donghae to Ulleungdo was a bit choppy; as the swells churned a handful of stomachs we were graced with a half dozen dolphins dancing through the waves!  This foreshadowed an amazing weekend full of unbelievable landscapes that make Ulleungdo an exotic paradise.

Ulleungdo Hotel

Are you coming to this magical island and looking for accommodation on Ulleungdo?
Be sure to reserve your Ulleungdo hotel ahead of time because there are only a few online options and they often sell out 2+ months in advance!



Ulleungdo Island

After a quick local meal (including Ulleungdo’s famous pumpkin makkeoli) we headed along the seawalk.  The walkway from Dodong and Jeodong hovered above the waves with tons of scenic lookouts and a few shops selling fresh shellfish.  We walked along enjoying the scenery before taking a detour through a bamboo forest to one of the best observation points on the island.





Walking along the seacoast is a must for anyone visiting Ulleungdo.  The breathtaking views combined with light, fresh, salty air invigorate and inspire you.  This place has to be good for your health.  Everything is good for your health in Korea so this paradise must be too.  Right?

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After the seacoast we scrambled up Seonginbong’s 986m peak to catch sunset from the top of UlleungdoKorea.  The hike was harder than expected with many steep stretches.  Next time I go up I’ll have to ask Warren for the secret entrance his cabbie found after he went back to check on our latecomers.


Ulleungdo Island South Korea

Roughly 4km of trail on Ulleungdo Island South Korea are interspersed with a wooden bridge and a few rock staircases before finally reaching the stunning views from above.  Ulleungdo is only about 10 km on its longest side giving Seonginbong an amazing 360 degree view of vast ocean landscapes.


Best Sunset in Ulleungdo Korea!

Reaching the top of Ulleungdo Island at 7:30pm we were blown away by the stunning scene below.  Somehow we snuck above the clouds and watched that orange orb shrink under the horizon spraying radiant hues along the clouds.  Words can’t describe how amazing it was so just look at the picture of what might be my new favorite view!

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Seoul Hiking Group Twins!

Seoul Hiking Group Twins!


Hiking down we broke out the flashlights and enjoyed a lively conversation while imagining a delicious meal down below.  Our first day on Ulleungdo was magnificent and a night at the fishmarket got us ready for another awesome day touring this paradise.


Waking up bright and early the next morning we ate a delicious breakfast of bacon, eggs, sausage and veggies before jumping into a bus for a few hour tour.  Driving along the water was almost as beautiful as our seacoast stroll the day before.  The greens and blues sparkled in crystal clear water reminding me of a mystical dream while the tour guide rattled off animal names for each rock formation.


The road took us in and out of a series of tunnels before our first stop at a cable car.  It looked more like a roller coaster from 6-Flags or Everland but moved at a snails pace up the mountain.  A 10 minute walk from the drop off brought us to yet another stunning observation point next to Taeha Lighthouse.  Hundreds of meters below the aquamarine waves crashed into volcanic shores creating yet another picturesque landscape._DSC9520



Uleungdo Panorama 2




Packing back into the bus the tour continued to an underwater observatory.  Visibility at 6m beneath the surface showed off dozens off fish and gave us all a refreshing idea.  Moments later dozens of waygooks (foreigners) jumped into the water as I dreamt of Thailand.  The views here were similar to my journey through the Andaman Sea but the water was noticeably cooler.  No matter, I’ll be going back to those tropical waters in less than a month!

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The next stop brought us through winding mountain roads and into Ulleungdo’s only flat land.  The ancient caldera from Ulleungdo’s volcano is now lush farmland surrounded by verdant mountains.  Clouds danced among the peaks as we stopped by two farms for a chance to try traditional Korean pancakes and liquors (pumpkin wine, herbal wine and a fermented berry tea) made from produce that only grows on Ulleungdo.


Our last stop was a pumpkin store filled with breads and candies.  They gave out free samples of a delectable pumpkin bread reminiscent of a less sweet American pumpkin pie and 2 types of candy.  The chewy pumpkin jelly was delicious but I preferred the bread and harder taffy-like candy that had a slight nougat flavor.  Everything in their store was no sugar added and somehow had just the right amount of sweetness to keep whet our palate before heading back to port for our long journey home.  This unforgettable adventure ended with a half dozen Korean guitarist serenading us while we prayed for calmer seas on the way back.



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Mike Still
Mike is a travel enthusiast, photographer and teacher. He loves adventure travel, meeting the locals and exploring new culture. As an outdoor enthusiast you can often find him hiking mountains or exploring forests trying to capture the beauty of mother nature. In 2013 he founded www.LiveTravelTeach.com as he left his home in America and has been teaching or traveling around the world ever since!

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Ryan Biddulph October 4, 2016 - 9:29 am

Hi Mike,

Incredibly beautiful. You’re introducing me to many Korean gems I was unaware of before reading your blog. Amazing. The water color makes me think Bali or the South Pacific. Beyond brilliant. The tour looked really cool too. Feel for you on the boat ride. Once we took a ferry from Koh Lanta to Phuket and although it was a biggie, by trip’s end the 3 hours of mild but persistent bobbing had me woozy. Had to get the hell off the boat LOL. Awesome write up bro 😉


mike.j.still@gmail.com October 4, 2016 - 12:20 pm

Thanks Ryan!

Korea has so many amazing places. I had no idea it was a worthwhile tourist spot until I moved here to teach 3 years ago. I’m getting ready to move on and everytime I re-read a post or hear a comment like yours I get nostalgic. The ferry from Lanta all the way to Phuket in one go would certainly do the trick. Its about the same length as the Ulleungdo one too.

17 Destinations I'm Obsessed with Traveling to in 2017 - Eternal Arrival April 8, 2017 - 5:43 am

[…] I almost taught English in South Korea before deciding to leave the teaching world and try out my blogging chops. And while most days I’m happy with that, there are days I wish I was eating all the kimchi jjigae, bibimbap dolsot, mandu, sundubu jjigae, and galbi I could find. Traditional Korean food is one of my favorite foods in the world, and to eat it in the homeland would be a dream come true. Plus, the spring cherry blossoms and the autumn colors are simply beautiful, and it’s affordable to travel in Korea! There are so many gorgeous islands, like the famous Jeju Island (often called “The Hawaii of Korea”) and lesser known but equally beautiful ones like Ulleungdo. […]

Eseru Gerald April 24, 2023 - 1:12 am

Thanks for sharing this perfect article with us.


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